Exploring the Peloponnese & Delphi

We decided to drive a loop around the southern portion of Central Greece, then continue south to the huge land mass — mostly surrounded by water — that is called the Peloponesse. We imagined a Hall of Fame for history, the cities on this route being recognized as historical “all-stars”: Delphi (Delphoi), Thebes, Sparta, Olympia, Mycenae, Napflio and Monemvasia. As we toured counter-clockwise through this rugged land of mountains and olive trees, these places became more than names; they became alive with an understanding of what life may have been like eons ago.

Delphoi and Olympia –

The legend is that Zeus released two eagles from opposite ends of the earth and they met at Delphoi (the “o” is not pronounced), which determined the center of the earth. Greeks refer to it as Omphalos, the “navel of the earth”. It is stunningly located on the slopes of Mt. Parnassus, with a dramatic view down steep valleys, eastward toward the sea. Pilgrims, arriving by boat for celebrations, devotional sacrifices and athletic games, would trudge up the valleys, past the Temple of Athena Pronaia, then further to the Temple of Apollo and the stadium for Pan-Hellenic Games. Today, this is still a location of jaw-dropping wonder; in the past it must have been magical, validating the majesty of the moment.

Apollo, Zeus’ son, was the god of many things: the Sun and light, prophecy, philosophy, truth, logic, inspiration, music, poetry, the arts, purification, medicine, healing, plague, archery, and masculine beauty. The temple that bears his name was once huge, as was his status in the pantheon of gods.

Dephoi is also the site of the famous Oracle of Delphoi, Ancient Greece’s most powerful spiritual and political authority. For over a thousand years, priestesses known as the Pythia translated Apollo’s prophecies to kings, generals, and citizens, heavily influencing wars, colonial ventures, and diplomacy.

(It is hypothesized that the oracle’s prophecies were heavily influenced by natural, light hydrocarbon gas emissions that rose from a fissure in the bedrock.)

We toured Delphoi without a guide, but easily absorbed the importance of this place in Greek life. It must have been magnificent in its heyday. After our visit, we made a gorgeous 3-hour drive to Olympia. We meandered through a patchwork of huge tracts of olive groves bordered by rugged terrain, excited to visit the home of the Olympics the following day.

OLYMPIA

Today we think of Olympia as the celebrated home of the quadrennial Olympic Games, but in the 8th century B.C.E. Olympia was place to come and honor Zeus, father of the Greek Gods. Athletic contests were part of most major Greek celebrations, but the main draw here was the Temple of Zeus, famously housing the 40-foot high Statue of Zeus that was considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

We arrived at the Olympia architectural site on a rainy day, which may have “dampened” our perception of this historic site. Today, it is hard to imagine the village where these relics stood, since they have been ravaged over time by earthquakes and other weather events.

The remnants of Olympia require a vivid imagination to recreate the structures that existed in the glory days of this place. What appeared as rock-strewn fields were once proud temples, athletic dormitories and gymnasiums. The great Temple of Zeus was a shambles and the Olympic Stadium did not compare well to today’s massive athletic structures.

There was however, a wonderful museum at Olympia. Its exhibits recounted better days, and we especially appreciated its displays of craftsmanship dating back to the 8th century B.C.E.

DELPHI & OLYMPIA PHOTO GALLERY

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Our original route took us from Athens counter clockwise to Delfoi, Olympia, Monemvasia and Napflio.

Delphi in its heyday circa 300 B.C.E. (imagined by artist)

Aerial view of remains of Delphi Architectural site

The Temple of Athena Pronaia, facing east, was the first building that pilgrims to Delphoi would see.

Remains of the Temple of Apollo, the most important religious site in ancient Greece.

Located on the slopes of Mount Parnassus, this temple was the heart of the sanctuary where the famous Oracle of Delphi delivered prophecies.

Remains of the Roman Agoura, a marketplace with stall to serve visitors to Delphi and to the Oracle.

The ruins of the Tholos of Athena Pronaia at the archaeological site of Delphi in Greece.

The Athenian Treasury, at Delphi, dedicated around 500 B.C.E.

Depiction of original treasury building, used to store votive gifts of gold and silver dedicated by the city of Athens to the god Apollo.

Jani with portion of Ionic column that was part of the Temple of Apollo.

Looking past the ancient theater, one sees the remains of the Temple of Apollo at Delphi.

In the foreground, a 4th-century B.C.E. theater designed to hold approximately 5,000 spectators and hosted musical contests during the Pythian Games.

The venue for the Pythian Games, one of the four Panhellenic Games, which were held every four years in honor of Apollo. The stadium could accommodate approximately 6,500 spectators and measures 178 meters in length.

Walkway used by tourist to visit the Temple of Apollo and the stadium used for the Pythian Games.

Drawing of the Temple of Apollo as it would have appeared in ancient times.

View from the Temple of Apollo, east towards the sea.

Remaining columns of the Temple of Apollo

The Ancient Theater of Delphi, built in the 4th century B.C.E. 35 rows of limestone provided seating for an audience of 5000.

Delphi was considered the “center of the world” by the ancient Greeks and served as a major religious center dedicated to the god Apollo.

The Temple of Apollo was the seat of the Pythia, the famous high priestess and oracle who delivered prophecies believed to come from Apollo.

Looking over the ancient site of Delphi, located on the southern slopes of Mount Parnassus, extending toward the Gulf of Corinth

Partial view of the seating area for Delphi’s stadium. (See video below)

The expansive olive groves in the Pleistos Valley, often referred to as the "sea of olive trees," situated between the ancient site of Delphi and the Krissaian Gulf

The drive between Delphi and Olympia featured lush valleys of olive trees bordered by steep hills.

The Valley of Amfissa is filled with over 1.2 million olive trees, forming one of the largest and oldest continuous olive groves in Greece.

The village of Eleonas (also known as Topolia) in the Phocis region of central Greece. It is situated on the slopes of Mount Parnassus.

Dining room at Bacchus House, where we stayed for our Olympia visit.

A toast at Bacchus House, overlooking the valleys around Olympia, Greece.

The Temple of Zeus, completed in 131 B.C.E. under the instruction of Roman Emperor Hadrian. (artist’s conception)

Ruins of the Temple of Zeus today, most likely destroyed by earthquakes.

Artist’s conception of the Statue of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, 40 feet high.

The Philippeion. It is a rare circular shrine that was commissioned by Philip II of Macedon and completed by his son, Alexander the Great.

Steps leading to he ruins of the Temple of Zeus located at the archaeological site of Ancient Olympia in Greece

These ruins are the remnants of the Temple of Zeus, a colossal structure built in the 5th century BC that once housed a statue of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

The Leonidaion, functioned as athletes quarters and bath house. Constructed around 330B.C.E.

The archaeological ruins of the Temple of Hera (Heraion) located in Ancient Olympia, Greece. Hera was Zeus’ wife.

A young man looks through the entrance to the Olympic stadium to the venue where the first Olympic Games were held.

Entrance tunnel for athletes who competed in Olympia’s quadrennial games.

The stadium was originally built with The ancient stadium at Olympia featured berm seating for 20,000 spectators and still features stone markers for the starting and finishing lines.

An ancient bronze cauldron featuring decorative bull-head protomes, likely dating back to the late 8th century B.C.E.

A bronze sheet depicting a griffin, likely dating from around 630–620 B.C.E.

A bronze siren protome that originally served as a decorative attachment for a tripod cauldron. Excavated from the Temple of Zeus. Created around 700 and 650 B.C.E.

Bronze griffin head from 7th century B.C.E. Such heads, known as protomes, were popularly used to decorate the rims of large bronze tripods and cauldrons offered as votive gifts in sanctuaries like Olympia.

DELPHI STADIUM VIDEO GALLERY

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The stadium at Delphi could accommodate approximately 6,500 spectators and measures 178 meters in length.

Monemvasia & Napflio –

By the time we departed Olympia and drove towards the southern reaches of the Peloponesse, we were a little numb from all “the old stuff” (Jani’s succinct summation of all the antiquities) we had seen. It was a giant puzzle whose pieces we were attempting to adapt into a coherent time line of centuries and civilizations. In truth, it was a little numbing. The next two stops would not require the imagination of rebuilding fallen ruins, but were still important to Greek history.

Monemvasia, is an island fortress, connected to the mainland by a 400 meter tombolo. It is surrounded by the Myrtoan Sea. There is a village within the fortress walls, where we would be staying. Also known as the “Gibraltar of the East,” it was built in 583 C.E. as a refuge from Slavic invaders. It was a powerful Byzantine trading hub, but frequently changed hands between the Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans until being liberated during the Greek War of Independence in 1821.

Truthfully, we were less interested in the history here, than looking forward to a unique experience. Monemvasia, did not disappoint, as the photos, below, will attest.

After the wonderful overnight at Monemvasia, we ventured to Nafplio, a seaport town that has once the capital of the First Hellenic Republic in the 1800’s. Like many of the fortress cities, it featured an upper and a lower village, with maze-like streets that made finding our accommodation a challenge. Once settled though, we walked to a wonderful square where we had dinner, gazing at an incredibly beautiful Ficus Tree and sun-lit mountain castle in the distance.

The next day we would leave the Peloponesse, drive back to Attica (the region where Athens is located) and fly to the Island of Santorini, hoping to see a different side of Greek life.

PELOPONESSE PHOTO GALLERY

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The historic fortified Islet town of Monemvasia, founded in the 6th century by residents fleeing Slavic and Avar invasions.

The 200-meter connecting road to Monemvasia from the coastal city of Gefyra.

The entrance to Monemvasia Castle.

The many tiers of the medieval fortress town of Monemvasia.

This is the historic medieval fortress town of Monemvasia, located on a small, rocky island off the east coast of the Peloponnese peninsula in Greece. Known as “the Gibraltar of Greece.”

Street view inside Monemvasia Castle.

The charming streets of Monemvasia

It is easy to lose one’s way in Monemvasia.

Jani searching for our hotel. Because of the stone streets, tourists are encouraged to leave their “roller bags” in the car.

Finally, a sign for our hotel, although the subterranean office precedes it in the partially-visible archway.

The subterranean office for the Likinia Hotel

Monemvasia features a steep climb along a wall and many layers to the lower town.

Looking up at the fortress atop the limestone cliffs of Monemvasia.

Interesting perspective of the streets of Monemvasia

To enter our room at the Likinia Hotel, we had to pass over some subterranean ruins, covered by glass in the entryway.

Another charming alleyway on Monemvasia

Lovely Monemvasia street

A picturesque street within the walls of Monemvasia

Our room at the Likinia Hotel in Monemvasia.

Breakfast area in the Likinia Hotel on Monemvasia

Subterranean seating area for the Likinia Hotel’s breakfast service.

Our room looked out on the Myrtoan Sea, over the canon balls in the courtyard.

This image shows the Chrysafitissa Square in the medieval castle town of Monemvasia, Greece. The white building on the right is the church of Panagia Chrysafitissa.The stone structure on the left is the Kellia Guesthouse, a traditional building formerly used as a monks’ residence.

Chrysafitissa Square in the lower town of Monemvasia

Monemvasia is renowned for its well-preserved Byzantine and Venetian stone houses, narrow alleyways, and ancient walls.

Our room in Monemvasia is behind the 3 windows under the balcony. The white chair was set out so we could find it.

The Church of Agia Paraskevi within the fortress walls of Monemvasia.

Syntagma Square (Constitution Square) in the historic old town of Nafplio, Greece

Vouleftiko (Old State House): The prominent white building with the dome was originally a mosque, built in 1730, and later served as the first Parliament of Greece. Syntagma Square in the heart of Nafplio’s Old Town

Syntagma Square in the heart of Nafplio’s Old Town. We had dinner in a restaurant to the left.

Astounding Ficus Tree in Syntagma Square

Palamidi Fortress, an early 18th century historic Venetian stronghold located in the city of Nafplio, Greece. It is a 999 steps climb from the city square.